DNR Does the Right Thing!

Back in 1989 when I first moved to Washington State, old-growth trees were being cut down faster than Congress can spend money on wars, entitlements, and subsidies. Matter-of-fact, the Washington Department of Natural Resources (DNR) which manages over five million acres of our public lands had a hard time trying to convince me that DNR didn't stand for Department of Nothing Remaining! But common sense and a more balanced approach (not yet achieved by Congress however when it comes to spending) started becoming the order for DNR in the mid 1990s. Among the department's new enlightenment was that we didn't have to cut down every tree to fund our schools (which can probably do a little more belt-tightening-but that's another story). Yep, there were some areas, particularly groves of old-growth and exceptional wildlife lands that are more valuable to us standing for recreation, wildlife and watershed protection than by being piles of lumber. DNR continues to march to this new and improved management strategy by declaring over 10,000 acres of its Middle Fork Snoqualmie River lands as a Natural Resources Conservation Area. That announcement was delivered at the Mountain to Sounds Greenway Trust's annual dinner on December 2. Read here. What this means in the bigger picture for the Middle Fork Snoqualmie Valley, is that the move to declare adjacent US Forest Service lands as wilderness is all the more important now. For if the bill that is currently before Congress (thanks to Congressman Reichert and Senator Murray) is approved into law, a much larger contiguous piece of the Middle Fork Snoqualmie will now be protected. Good move DNR. Now, lets move Congress to get the wilderness bill passed. And hopefully our governor who has shown great indifference in her 5 years in office to adequately fund our state parks and lands (even during good times-where did all the money go, Ms Gregoire?) will see the light too and not fiscally destroy this valuable agency.

Pratt River Valley inches closer toward Wilderness

This just in from the Washington Wilderness Coalition:

IN THE NEWS: Bill Has Successful Hearing in the House and Senate
On November 5th, legislation to protect the Pratt and Middle Fork Snoqualmie River Valleys moved a step closer toward permanent protection after clearing a subcommittee hearing in the House Natural Resources Committee. The welcome news comes after a Senate subcommittee hearing last week. The Alpine Lakes Wilderness Additions and Pratt and Middle Fork Snoqualmie Rivers Protection Act (S. 721/ H.R.1769) would expand the existing Alpine Lakes Wilderness by over 22,000 acres to include important lower-elevation lands and designate two rivers of great importance to the surrounding ecosystem as Wild and Scenic. WWC has played a leadership role in a local coalition that has worked over the last two years with many local stakeholders, including local businesses, elected officials, religious leaders, and recreation and conservation organizations.

Good news indeed and one that the bill's sponsors, Senator Patty Murry and Congressman Dave Reichert can both take with them to their reelection campaigns next year-and quite possibly (Dave, are you running for the senate next fall?)in a campaign against each other. In any case, thanks for working to increase our wilderness base. My upcoming Backpacking Washington book has a chapter on Pratt and Kaleetan Lakes and the area surrounding them that is slated to be part of the new wilderness addition.

(Photo: looking down the Pratt River Valley out to the Middle Fork Snoqualmie Valley)

Washington's Canyon Country

The view from 6,379-foot Diamond Peak, the highest summit in Garfield County, Washington's least populated county ( population 2,060) is unlike any other in the state. It's a view of deep canyons and barren hillsides and huge gorges cuts by snaking rivers. Here in the extreme corner of southeastern Washington is the Evergreen State's Canyon Country. And aside from deeply-cut canyons, you'll also be granted views of snow-capped jagged peaks in Oregon (the Wallowas with summits reaching nearly 10,000 feet) and cloud-piercing peaks across Hells Canyon in Idaho. The Blue Mountains along with the Kettle River Range in northeastern Washington are perhaps the loneliest and least explored mountain ranges in Washington. They're two of my favorite places and I have lined up four fantastic adventurous hikes in my upcoming Backpacking Book to help entice you to make the long trip to explore these peaks. And while a good portion of the Blues are protected within wilderness, the Kettle River Range still remains unprotected. This guidebook author would love to someday write about a Kettle Crest Wilderness when describing the area. Perhaps the reality of an expansive Eastern Washington wilderness system may come soon--but only if you are willing to let your elected representatives know that it is something that you want to see happen-something that you believe in-and something that you are committed to achieving.

Mount Adams

Second to None

Washington's second highest summit is by no means second rate. While Mount Rainier is certainly Washington state's "mountain," 12,276-foot Adams deserves more respect than being the runner-up. Adams is bulkier than Rainier making it a more massive mountain. And being located farther east than Rainier and Washington's other snow cone volcanoes, the terrain here is much drier. Lacking are the lush wildflower meadows that make Rainier famous. But Adams has its own mystique-pumice flats and alpine tundra and massive lava flows. This week I was able to make it to Devils Garden, the highest point on the Mount Adams Highline Trail. Here at the border between the Mount Adams Wilderness and the Yakima Nation you can stare out at an expanse of golden eastern Washington hills as well as glacial draped Rainier, the jagged Goat Rocks and the serrated spine of the Dark Divide. And mountain goats! My hiking partners, wife Heather and brother Doug, and I were able to watch over 40 goats ply the rugged alpine flats between the Lyman and Wilson Glaciers. Many years ago I was forced to turnaround on the Highline because I could not get across a swollen glacial melt creek. Not this week-the creek was negotiable and we made it to the Devils Garden. Its a 20 mile round trip from the Muddy Meadows Trailhead-and yes, its a featured trip in my upcoming Backpacking Book. You have one more day this month before the weather turns nasty to reach this spectacular destination. Otherwise, put it on your 2010 hiking calendar!

(Photo-Heather hops across a fork of Muddy Creek)

Busting the Myths of Aasgard Pass

A couple weeks ago, with my wife, Heather and a hiking partner, Don, I finally hiked up and over Aasgard Pass in the fable Enchantment Lakes. I've heard a lot about this "backdoor passage" to the Enchantments over the past two decades. And now after doing this hike I look back at some of the hyperbole used to describe this route. It's not nearly as dangerous and steep as some reports indicate. Actually it's a lot like some of the trails that I've done in the French Pyrenees and the White Mountains of New Hampshire as far as rock and steepness. Granted now that I did this Northwest Classic route on an ideal day. Aasgard certainly would be dangerous in adverse weather-but then again so would a lot of places in the mountains. So--if you haven't done this route yet-here is my take-

1. It's steep-but nearly as steep as the route to Constance Lake
2. It's rocky-but most of the way is on defined path
3. Once the snow is gone it's just a grunt with no special concerns
4. There is a big boulder field to hop over, but that is at the far end of Colchuck Lake with no pitch
5. There's no exposure to dangerous falling. But you are exposed if a thunderstorm or snowstorm barrels in-so keep that in mind
6. You'll still need to be in good shape to do this hike because it does climb over 2,000 feet in 1.5 miles
7. The route down from Lake Vivianne to the Snow Lakes is far more difficult than Aasgard-

Okay, there's still plenty of time this season to check this route out-go for it-larches will be turning soon-
And I'm interested in what's your take on the fabled Aasgard?

Four Score (in just two weeks)

In a crazy way I welcome the rain this weekend. I was going to head out once again, but you know something? I'm beat! Could it be because I have done four 20+ mile day hikes within the last two weeks--196.5 miles of backpacking and hiking for the month of August!? No wonder I'm tired! But what a sweet pain--this has been a great hiking season and it is not even close to being over yet. I've got Rainier back on my mind for next week and Mount Adams, Indian Heaven, the Blues, and the Salmo-Priest are all in the autumn line-up. My latest killer hike was this past Wednesday with friends Kristan Carver and Kent Wright-we embarked on a little 23 mile hike to Kaleetan Lake- started at the Granite Mountain Trailhead and came out via Denny Creek. Kaleetan is a real gem--probably the loneliest lake within the busy I-90 corridor. Consider an overnight there if you wish to escape the crowds of Melakwa, Olallie and Talapus Lakes--and why would you even want to camp at those lakes in the first place? And if Kaleetan is a tad bit too far for you, Pratt Lake and Lower Tuscohatchie are quite lovely too. Details for this adventure can be found in my upcoming Backpacking Washington book. In the meanwhile see you on the trail this autumn!

Pee, and they will come!

Have you ever wanted to get a great photo of a mountain goat? Let me tell you how to get a killer shot with three easy steps-well actually two easy steps. The first step is hard. Bust your butt getting up into the Enchantment Lakes Basin. Step Two. Drink lots of coffee and/or water beforehand. Step Three. Pee on a rock. Now wait. Voila! A goat will materialize out of nowhere!

On my recent trek across the Enchantments I stopped for a mid afternoon break to relieve myself. Making sure that I was urinating in an environmentally correct way, I hosed down a nearby granite ledge. You don't want to squirt the vegetation because those salt-craving resident goats will tear up the turf slurping up your urine-ade.

Talk about a conditioned response. Those resident goats know the sound urine makes when its dancing off a rock. As soon as I was done, a big ole goat came lumbering out of nowhere to sample the freshly made hot Italian soda. He loved it! I enjoyed photographing him. So Art Wolfe, is this the secret to your great wildlife photos? More than a few of your images are real pissers! Drink up my fellow wildlife photographers and hit the trail!

I Fell into a Burning Ring of Fire!

In my many years and thousands of miles of hiking I have had many an unsettling experience among all of my glorious times. I've spooked and been spooked by grizzlies, bull elk, bull moose, and rattlesnakes protecting their dens. I've been dive bombed by owls, skimmed by bats, covered in ticks, stung by wasps, picked up a parasite or two and been zapped by numerous plants. I've been charged by dogs. Rained on. Snowed on. Caught in storms, dodged lightening bolts, loose rocks and even falling trees. I've been stuck fording raging creeks, crossing dangerous steep snowfields and even have been lost a couple of times (just a couple mind you!). And now after last week's hike to Spectacle Lake-I fell into a burning ring of fire (play it Johnny!).

On Thursday August 27th, I headed up to Spectacle Lake via the Pete Lake Trail and was aware of a forest fire in the area from the get-go-smoke and the smell of burning wood filled the air. The trail wasn't closed and supposedly the Lemah Creek Fire which had been burning since late July was just smoldering. Fire fighters were in the region and the the way was supposedly safe to proceed to Spectacle. Upon hitting the Lemah Meadows Trail I ran into a couple of hikers and as we talked wood crackled right behind us-yes, right behind us-the fire was that close-but supposedly it was just smoldering and the way was safe and there were firefighters on the ground.

I made it to the lake-hung around for a couple of hours and then made my way back on the 10 miles remaining between me and my truck. As I descended from the lake, I watched the fire in the distance. It wasn't smoldering-it was flaring up-and I suddenly had a very unnerving feel. As I approached the burn zone and the trail which was supposed to skirt it and provide me with safe passage I knew I was approaching trouble. The smoke was thick and I could now feel the heat. I could hear wood crackling and feel breezes-hot breezes as the fire was creating its own thermals and winds. Right at the junction trees were burning. Holy shit! I figured I had about a quarter mile of fire zone to get through. Call me crazy-brazen-or stupid- I looked at the trees burning and the patches of fire dancing along the ground and assessed that I could get through safely if I prayed to God and ran like hell! I did both and made it through the burn zone physically exasperated and mentally overwhelmed. Holy shit-what was I thinking running through a forest fire? It was a fast run and a quick passage but it felt drawn out and almost surrealistic-like being in one of those Terminator movies or something similar where the hero runs through burning carnage-it was crazy-I survived it and warily kept marching down the trail. I encountered a couple of hikers coming up the trail where I warned them of my ordeal and what faced them-I must have looked like I saw a ghost.

I look back at the incident now and still break out into a sweat. Wow-that was one heck of an experience! The trail is closed now and the fire continues to flare and grow. Nature is a powerful force. The wilderness is a beautiful place-but Nature can sometimes make heaven on earth a living hell for those who usually live outside of her realm.

Necklace Valley-Tarnished

What a hike yesterday! Summer has returned in the Northwest. I got a little behind in my research due to the lousy weather that lasted for over a week. What to do then? Go into hyper drive! I ended up hiking into the Necklace Valley all the way to the base of La Bohn Gap with a side trip to Ilswoot Lake in a day! Yep-22 miles worth! Ugh-and yes I'm tired this morning. Half of the way I was able to run-the first five plus miles barely gain any elevation and the tread is pretty smooth-then its a three mile grunt-but once you get to the Valley it is pretty easy going-and this what I want to address. While there are a good half dozen plus lakes in the Necklace Valley, the trail only leads to one of them directly-so what has happened is that there are way-paths all over the freaking place up there. Now, while that presents challenges to hikers sending them out and about-it also creates serious problems for the heather parklands-they are being trampled and chewed up-Pretty unsightly-pretty bad for this fragile environment-and pretty poor land management. Yes, hikers should have access to these wonderful lakes-But how about designating just one side trail to each of the lakes? Label these trails so hikers know where they are going and will use them-and then start closing and rehabilitating the other "trails" that are scarring this beautiful valley and tarnishing these gorgeous alpine gems? Your take?

(photo-Gorgeous Ilswoot Lake-which I believe is a bastardization of Itsoot which is Chinook for black bear)

A lot can change in 16 years

Which is why if a trail is going in one of my guidebooks, I head out to hike it again regardless if I have hiked it in the past-especially the distant past. I have read far too many guidebooks that have me questioning whether the author had actually ever hiked the trail--or hiked it within the last decade or two. Not the case with mine-I hike the trails-all of the trails-and again if may be as soon as I contract to do a new guidebook. I want my readers to be assured that they can trust my info-especially important information like whether a bridge is missing-as such is the case of the Waptus River Trail. Now does this still mean that my books are error free? Of course not-errors occur when you are putting together 85,000 word manuscripts and several people are working on production. But fortunately the couple of errors that have crept up in my books have been small and are quickly fixed in subsequent printings. I do my damnedest to make my books accurate. Of course, you my dear readers can help me out if you notice that I made a mistake-or if something new happens-like say a bridge washes out-I greatly appreciate your support and hearing from you. Enjoy the trails and stay-up-to-date on the conditions. The Waptus Bridge has been out since 2006. Back in 1993 when I had last hiked the trail (before last week) a majestic bridge spanned a roaring and intimidating stretch of the river. Ah memories-and a much easier hike!

Restless Souls in the Alpine Lakes

That would be the souls of my trail running shoes. They're restless and my feet are beat! My spiritual soul is just fine-very at ease actually! As most of you know I am currently working on a backpacking book. It is a little different than the standard backpacking books out there. It is meant primarily to be for weekend backpacking. Most of the trips are in the 18-25 mile range making them perfect for a one nighter for strong hikers are an extended trip for those who wish to linger. The book will include 70 trips from the Olympics to the Blues and almost all of these trips do not require a car shuttle-another hindrance to convenient trekking. The book is also meant to compliment the Day Hiking series--so if you like/have my day hiking books you'll want to add this volume to help you go a little farther down the trail. The research for this book is demanding. I currently have 49 more trips to complete --and mind you that I only have a few months to do it. So, how am I doing it? Well despite that the book is a backpacking book-I'm not actually overnighting on every trip. I'd like to-but time is a ticking. So, good thing I am a marathon runner because I am putting in some serious mileage-making sure the trails are fine-water sources are good- campsites are decent-all of that good stuff. I just finished my last two days over in the Salmon La Sac Area. Thursday did a 21 mile day hike to Waptus Lake and beyond- and yesterday did a 16 mile hike to Deep Lake. Good stuff-you are going to love hiking to these places-but do me a favor and spend some time-will ya? Okay-this week I'll probably be over in the Rainier area-and back in time to do my presentation on the Entiat at WTA's Trailsfest. Stop by and chat-I'll let you in on a few of the places in the new book. Some are popular-but others are hidden gems-all good stuff. Okay I need to rest before I head out again. Ciao.

(photo-Deep Lake from above-boy was it a big drop-1,200-feet worth-and climb back out!)

Who wants to take

Cathy McMorris Rodgers

for a Hike?

This in from yesterdays Seattle Times:

Murray, Reichert take a hike with reporters
MIKE SIEGEL / THE SEATTLE TIMES
Archive More land sought for Alpine Lakes Wilderness
U.S. Sen. Patty Murray, and U.S. Rep. Dave Reichert, R-8th take a hike with reporters and supporters in Three Forks Park near the Middle Fork and North Fork of the Snoqualmie River to talk up their bill Friday, granting Wild and Scenic River protection for the Pratt and Middle Fork Snoqualmie Rivers. The bill, introduced March 27, also would include wilderness protection for an additional 22,000 acres in the Alpine Lakes region.

That's great - bi-partisan support for wilderness. But how about actually getting Reichert and Murray into real wilderness and not some suburban park on the outskirts of North Bend? Be a real hiker and wilderness advocate like Peter DeFazio of Oregon. And how about taking Cathy McMorris-Rodgers for a hike along the Kettle Crest. Show her what wilderness looks like and show her what needs to be protected. C'mon Cathy, how about being a Republican in the traditional sense- like Teddy Roosevelt-Dan Evans-Richard Nixon-Judd Gregg, Silvio Conte, and Thomas Pelly?

I'll gladly take you on a hike here! Just shoot me an email. I'd love to show you why this place deserves to be wilderness. And I'd love to tell you why a good conservative believes in conservation. I'll be waiting by the computer for your response. I'll even bring along lunch for our hike-you like Tapenade and Foccacia?

(photo- Alan Bauer taking in the views from Wapaloosie Mountain in the Kettle River Range)