Mi Piace Neve!
(That's "I like snow!")

I grew up in New Hampshire, a state not exactly known for long summers. In fact we have an expression about New Hampshire's seasons, that goes like this- 11 months of winter and one month of damn poor sledding! So you can imagine that growing up in such a place you either love winter and embrace it or hate it and suffer or head to Florida. I embraced it-learning how to ski both downhill and cross country, snowshoe ( I started on wooden Quebec-made ones with lace bindings) and ice skate. We all played ice hockey back there (Cripe-40% of the state claims French-Canadian blood, what do you expect?) partaking in afternoon hockey pickup games. We'd play on a small pond well into dark making our own teams and settling our own indifferences. Gasp! Can you imagine today's parents actually letting their kids play with other kids on ice in the woods unsupervised? What a radical concept! Anyhow, since I learned to love winter I love to play and travel during that time too-and not to escape it for sunnier warmer climes. I have had the opportunity to visit Chile in the winter (Okay-you got me-its summer down there then!)- Japan, Italy, Austria and Slovenia in winter (real winter). And boy were those great trips. Got to do some great downhill and cross country skiing and snowshoeing in some pretty spectacular places like Italy's Alps outside of Trento (pictured here at Monte Bondone). And of course the best thing to skiing in Italy is Apres-skiing espresso e pasti! That sure beats burgers and gas station coffee any day. Embrace the winter miei amici-it is just about to begin-enjoy it!

102.9 Miles

What a week!

I am exhausted today. Why? I had a record week of researching (hiking) these past seven days. I just had to take advantage of the amazing week of weather we just had to get as much trail research in for my upcoming backpacking and Columbia Gorge books. My brother Doug flew in from New Hampshire and he along with my wife Heather and I headed to Trout Lake for the week to set up base. We stayed at the lovely Serenity's cabins and then headed out on a hiking frenzy:

Sept. 20 Devils Garden, Mount Adams Highline-via Muddy Meadows Trail, Mount Adams Wilderness-Gifford Pinchot National Forest 20.1 miles

Sept. 21 Wahtum Lake-Chinidere Mountain-Mud Lake-Tomlike Mountain-Anthill Trail Loop Mark Hatfield Wilderness, Mount Hood National Forest 9.7 miles

Sept. 22 Blue Lake-Deep Lake-Lemei Lake-Tombstone Lake-Elk Lake-Clear Lake- Indian Heaven-PCT-Cultus Creek Loop – Indian Heaven Wilderness- Gifford Pinchot National Forest 18.3 miles

Sept. 23 Observation Mountain Trail-Sister Rocks-Observation Mountain-Big Hollow Trail to Dry Creek Trail-Trapper Creek Wilderness- Gifford Pinchot National Forest 13.1 miles

Sept. 24 Wahtum Lake-PCT to Indian Mountain-Hatfield Wilderness, Mount Hood National Forest, Oregon 9.5 miles

Sept. 25 Dog Mountain-new trail to old trail to summit to new trail to old trail back down the Augsperger Mountain Trail, Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area 8.5 miles

On September 26, Doug flew back to NH and Heather and I retreated to Skagit County. Realizing that the weather was about to change soon-I decided to get up at 4:30 am on Sunday and sneak in one more, albeit long hike-and it was long-almost 24 miles-my longest day hike of the year-should be good training for my upcoming marathon. Yesterday's hike was a classic-

North Fork Skykomish Trail to Pass Creek Trail to PCT to Dishpan Gap to North Fork Skykomish Trail-Wild Sky and Henry M. Jackson Wilderness, Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, 23.7 miles

My grand total for the week (I did have one day off) was 102.9 miles. And for the month? Yet another record for me with 221.2 miles! I believe this year will be a record too-boy, I'm going to need a sedentary vacation!

(photo-crimson trail lining PCT near Skykomish Mountain, Henry M. Jackson Wilderness 09/27/09)

Mount Adams

Second to None

Washington's second highest summit is by no means second rate. While Mount Rainier is certainly Washington state's "mountain," 12,276-foot Adams deserves more respect than being the runner-up. Adams is bulkier than Rainier making it a more massive mountain. And being located farther east than Rainier and Washington's other snow cone volcanoes, the terrain here is much drier. Lacking are the lush wildflower meadows that make Rainier famous. But Adams has its own mystique-pumice flats and alpine tundra and massive lava flows. This week I was able to make it to Devils Garden, the highest point on the Mount Adams Highline Trail. Here at the border between the Mount Adams Wilderness and the Yakima Nation you can stare out at an expanse of golden eastern Washington hills as well as glacial draped Rainier, the jagged Goat Rocks and the serrated spine of the Dark Divide. And mountain goats! My hiking partners, wife Heather and brother Doug, and I were able to watch over 40 goats ply the rugged alpine flats between the Lyman and Wilson Glaciers. Many years ago I was forced to turnaround on the Highline because I could not get across a swollen glacial melt creek. Not this week-the creek was negotiable and we made it to the Devils Garden. Its a 20 mile round trip from the Muddy Meadows Trailhead-and yes, its a featured trip in my upcoming Backpacking Book. You have one more day this month before the weather turns nasty to reach this spectacular destination. Otherwise, put it on your 2010 hiking calendar!

(Photo-Heather hops across a fork of Muddy Creek)

Death of a Dog

While I currently don't have a dog (it has nothing to do with my two cats!) I enjoy Man's best friend and am quite fond of many dogs and breeds. My current lifestyle of being on the road/trail for crazy amounts of time each year is just too difficult for me to care for a dog-it is hard enough with a wife and two cats! I have written a guidebook to hiking with your dog and I am a regular contributor to CityDog magazine. You can conclude that I like dogs. So, what happened to me on my most recent trip to Mount Rainier National Park has left me deeply saddened, upset and a bit angry too. In my 31 years of driving, never have I had to experience what I did on the night of September 15th. I hit and killed a dog while driving to the park.


I was traveling from Mowich Lake to Longmire via the rural and scenic Oroville Road through the Ohop Valley. It was 7:30-dusk when I passed a row of homes along Ohop Lake. As I rounded a bend, there right in the road was a small dog. I immediately downshifted. It didn't get out of the way. I couldn't swerve right for there was no shoulder-and if I swerved left where I thought the dog would go-I would have crossed the centerline on this very narrow road and endangered myself. As I slowed-I felt the impact. I immediately pulled over. It was awful, the little terrier mix was convulsing. I ran over to him-no blood or external visible injury. She managed to move herself to the side of the road. I ran to a nearby house. An elderly woman immediately opened the door without even worrying about this stranger pounding at her door. "I just hit a dog!" I frantically said. She knew instantly whose dog it was and ran over to get the owner. I ran back to the dog where another traveler was now pulled over by its side. He held it and mentioned that her heart beat was rapid and irregular. The poor little dog was gasping. I stood there apologizing to it-stroked her head-and felt so sorry. The owner came over-shook my hand for stopping and said "its not you fault." He then said, "I know I should not let her walk around like that-I just can't pen my dogs up." If you did I thought, she would still be alive.

I wondered why that little terrier didn't react faster and get out of my way. Turns out she only had three legs. The owner had just paid over $1,200 for her surgery and said she was doing fine. Why then did he allow her to sniff around in the road-on a fairly busy road-why? I felt nauseous as I watched the little thing slowly shut down. The owner returned with a blanket and took her away. I was hoping he would head to an emergency vet clinic but deep down I knew the dog was dead. The whole incident hung with me that evening while I was camping and throughout my hike the next day. On my way home I returned to the gracious neighbor who had answered my door knocking. She told me that her neighbor-the dog owner was taking the incident well. He buried the little thing last night. She told me that she couldn't understand why he would let his dog run free like that in the area. While she told me this her Australian Shepard begged me to play. This woman kept her high strung Aussie from roaming the roads-why couldn't her neighbor be more vigilant about protecting his three-legged terrier? She recounted about 9 dogs in the area that had been hit by cars.

I walked away saddened and upset that such a needless death occurred. I went over through my head that there was nothing that I could have done differently to stop it from happening. I felt responsible even though I knew I wasn't. I'm still saddened thinking about that poor little three-legged dog. I just can't understand how its owner could have ever allowed this to happen. I know I wouldn't have-but it was me who ultimately claimed its life. Poor thing. Being hit by a car is no way to go-and allowing this to happen is not being a responsible pet owner. Poor little dog....

Rainier's last floral hurrah

Just got back from two more days and 33 more miles of hiking at Mount Rainier National Park and what a great two days and 33 miles they were. On Tuesday I did a nice loop from Mowich Lake down Ipsut Creek, up the Carbon River and Seattle Park to Spray park and back. Yesterday I did a nice loop up the Tahoma Creek Trail over Emerald Ridge and back the South Puyallup Trail. The weather is holding out nicely and summer is hanging on. But alas the days are getting shorter and the wildflowers are fading into memory. But there are still the gentians! The final bloom in the high country before things begin turning red and start decaying. Spray Park which can ordinarily be a quite a zoo when it comes to crowds was eerily quiet when I was there late Tuesday afternoon. Try to sneak out and check it out--especially if you have never been here before. Lots of huckleberries and blueberries out there-and a bear or two too!

Red, White, and Blue!

Heather and I spent the weekend in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. What a weekend! We hiked up the North Fork Sauk River Trail which is in wonderful shape. Kudos to the Forest Service for the great work recently done on this trail. It is still long-don't believe the old reports of 8.5 miles-it is closer to 10.5 miles-and it is still steep-you'll climb 3,000 feet in 3.5 miles. But the payoff? Red Pass. White Pass. And Blue, blue skies. We hiked north on the PCT up and over Red Pass and then dropped 1,000 feet into Glacier Meadows where we made camp by a small stream at the edge of the meadows. While White Pass was hopping with climbers, horse parties and lots of other hikers-Heather and I practically had the entire Glacier Meadows to ourselves. Picked berries the next morning-scrambled the White Chuck Cinder Cone- had lunch on a small knoll above Red Pass-had to retrieve Heather's camera after she dropped it about 500 feet off the pass-still works! Then did a side trip to White Pass. Made it back to the truck at sunset. It was a 27 mile weekend and a highlight of the summer! Yep! This glorious destination will be in my upcoming Backpacking book--how'd you guess?!

Busting the Myths of Aasgard Pass

A couple weeks ago, with my wife, Heather and a hiking partner, Don, I finally hiked up and over Aasgard Pass in the fable Enchantment Lakes. I've heard a lot about this "backdoor passage" to the Enchantments over the past two decades. And now after doing this hike I look back at some of the hyperbole used to describe this route. It's not nearly as dangerous and steep as some reports indicate. Actually it's a lot like some of the trails that I've done in the French Pyrenees and the White Mountains of New Hampshire as far as rock and steepness. Granted now that I did this Northwest Classic route on an ideal day. Aasgard certainly would be dangerous in adverse weather-but then again so would a lot of places in the mountains. So--if you haven't done this route yet-here is my take-

1. It's steep-but nearly as steep as the route to Constance Lake
2. It's rocky-but most of the way is on defined path
3. Once the snow is gone it's just a grunt with no special concerns
4. There is a big boulder field to hop over, but that is at the far end of Colchuck Lake with no pitch
5. There's no exposure to dangerous falling. But you are exposed if a thunderstorm or snowstorm barrels in-so keep that in mind
6. You'll still need to be in good shape to do this hike because it does climb over 2,000 feet in 1.5 miles
7. The route down from Lake Vivianne to the Snow Lakes is far more difficult than Aasgard-

Okay, there's still plenty of time this season to check this route out-go for it-larches will be turning soon-
And I'm interested in what's your take on the fabled Aasgard?

Four Score (in just two weeks)

In a crazy way I welcome the rain this weekend. I was going to head out once again, but you know something? I'm beat! Could it be because I have done four 20+ mile day hikes within the last two weeks--196.5 miles of backpacking and hiking for the month of August!? No wonder I'm tired! But what a sweet pain--this has been a great hiking season and it is not even close to being over yet. I've got Rainier back on my mind for next week and Mount Adams, Indian Heaven, the Blues, and the Salmo-Priest are all in the autumn line-up. My latest killer hike was this past Wednesday with friends Kristan Carver and Kent Wright-we embarked on a little 23 mile hike to Kaleetan Lake- started at the Granite Mountain Trailhead and came out via Denny Creek. Kaleetan is a real gem--probably the loneliest lake within the busy I-90 corridor. Consider an overnight there if you wish to escape the crowds of Melakwa, Olallie and Talapus Lakes--and why would you even want to camp at those lakes in the first place? And if Kaleetan is a tad bit too far for you, Pratt Lake and Lower Tuscohatchie are quite lovely too. Details for this adventure can be found in my upcoming Backpacking Washington book. In the meanwhile see you on the trail this autumn!

Pee, and they will come!

Have you ever wanted to get a great photo of a mountain goat? Let me tell you how to get a killer shot with three easy steps-well actually two easy steps. The first step is hard. Bust your butt getting up into the Enchantment Lakes Basin. Step Two. Drink lots of coffee and/or water beforehand. Step Three. Pee on a rock. Now wait. Voila! A goat will materialize out of nowhere!

On my recent trek across the Enchantments I stopped for a mid afternoon break to relieve myself. Making sure that I was urinating in an environmentally correct way, I hosed down a nearby granite ledge. You don't want to squirt the vegetation because those salt-craving resident goats will tear up the turf slurping up your urine-ade.

Talk about a conditioned response. Those resident goats know the sound urine makes when its dancing off a rock. As soon as I was done, a big ole goat came lumbering out of nowhere to sample the freshly made hot Italian soda. He loved it! I enjoyed photographing him. So Art Wolfe, is this the secret to your great wildlife photos? More than a few of your images are real pissers! Drink up my fellow wildlife photographers and hit the trail!

I Fell into a Burning Ring of Fire!

In my many years and thousands of miles of hiking I have had many an unsettling experience among all of my glorious times. I've spooked and been spooked by grizzlies, bull elk, bull moose, and rattlesnakes protecting their dens. I've been dive bombed by owls, skimmed by bats, covered in ticks, stung by wasps, picked up a parasite or two and been zapped by numerous plants. I've been charged by dogs. Rained on. Snowed on. Caught in storms, dodged lightening bolts, loose rocks and even falling trees. I've been stuck fording raging creeks, crossing dangerous steep snowfields and even have been lost a couple of times (just a couple mind you!). And now after last week's hike to Spectacle Lake-I fell into a burning ring of fire (play it Johnny!).

On Thursday August 27th, I headed up to Spectacle Lake via the Pete Lake Trail and was aware of a forest fire in the area from the get-go-smoke and the smell of burning wood filled the air. The trail wasn't closed and supposedly the Lemah Creek Fire which had been burning since late July was just smoldering. Fire fighters were in the region and the the way was supposedly safe to proceed to Spectacle. Upon hitting the Lemah Meadows Trail I ran into a couple of hikers and as we talked wood crackled right behind us-yes, right behind us-the fire was that close-but supposedly it was just smoldering and the way was safe and there were firefighters on the ground.

I made it to the lake-hung around for a couple of hours and then made my way back on the 10 miles remaining between me and my truck. As I descended from the lake, I watched the fire in the distance. It wasn't smoldering-it was flaring up-and I suddenly had a very unnerving feel. As I approached the burn zone and the trail which was supposed to skirt it and provide me with safe passage I knew I was approaching trouble. The smoke was thick and I could now feel the heat. I could hear wood crackling and feel breezes-hot breezes as the fire was creating its own thermals and winds. Right at the junction trees were burning. Holy shit! I figured I had about a quarter mile of fire zone to get through. Call me crazy-brazen-or stupid- I looked at the trees burning and the patches of fire dancing along the ground and assessed that I could get through safely if I prayed to God and ran like hell! I did both and made it through the burn zone physically exasperated and mentally overwhelmed. Holy shit-what was I thinking running through a forest fire? It was a fast run and a quick passage but it felt drawn out and almost surrealistic-like being in one of those Terminator movies or something similar where the hero runs through burning carnage-it was crazy-I survived it and warily kept marching down the trail. I encountered a couple of hikers coming up the trail where I warned them of my ordeal and what faced them-I must have looked like I saw a ghost.

I look back at the incident now and still break out into a sweat. Wow-that was one heck of an experience! The trail is closed now and the fire continues to flare and grow. Nature is a powerful force. The wilderness is a beautiful place-but Nature can sometimes make heaven on earth a living hell for those who usually live outside of her realm.

A Mine is a terrible thing to Waste

(not exploring)

Two weekends ago Heather and I celebrated our third year wedding anniversary by hiking in the North Cascades National Park up and over Cascade Pass to Horseshoe Basin. It was an exceptionally beautiful day-perfect weather-great trails-and a fantastic corner of a fantastic park to explore. One of the highlights was following the old road now rocky trail into waterfall saturated Horseshoe Basin to the old Black Warrior Mine. The Mine is in pretty good shape for an old mine and was in use (somewhat) into the 1950s. It would have been a tough place to make a living but quite a nice view! While we scouted around the talus beneath the mine, I stumbled upon a penny. Its date was 2006-the year we were married. Dear Abby refer to these events as pennies from heaven-the oft happenstance event of discovering a penny bearing a significant date reminding you of a loved one, anniversary or event. Yeah- I know a 2006 penny is no big find. But on a scree slope-off trail in a remote basin on that particular day? Sounds like a penny from heaven to me! And if the one cent piece wasn't minted in heaven-God sure did a good job creating the props for that wonderful day!

Forget the Tulips-

Let's hit Anderson Mountain!

From my home office window I stare out over the Skagit River to Blanchard and Anderson Mountains. Many a Northwest Hiker is well aware of Blanchard-but not many know of Anderson. In fact, if you were to ask many a Skagit County resident-you'd get a blank! Yet, Anderson is a fairly prominent peak rising over 3,300 feet above the Skagit Valley just a few miles east of Alger. It's owned mostly by private timber companies and the WA DNR. But the good news is the Pacific Northwest Trail traverses right over it. And while the peak is forested there are some nice clear cuts here and there. Nice clear cuts did you say? Heck yeah- they allow some amazing views from Lake Whatcom in the north to the San Juan Islands, the Skagit Flats and the Olympic Mountains to the south and west. And on this particular sunny Sunday there was no one out out there- no one except for a cougar that left fresh tracks in the snow and lots of winter wrens. The hike from the Alger CCC road is a good workout- 7 miles one way and about 2800 feet of vertical. Still lots of snow on the top but a good choice for a spring warm up. I'll probably put it in one of my books eventually-so get out there now before it gets "discovered." But, even then you'll have a hard time prying away most people from nearby Blanchard.

(photo- Heather hikes by a nice clear-cut view of Lake Whatcom)

The Goose is Loose

Cyclists, hikers and runners looking for a superb long distance rail trail that blends urban and rural settings need to set their eyes on Victoria BC's Galloping Goose Trail. Extending from Victoria's Inner Harbour to the Sooke Hills, the trail travels for 60 kilometers through the gorgeous British Columbia capitol city and its spectacular surrounding countryside. But there is even more! The Lochside Trail branches off from the Goose to travel to Sidney and Schwartz Bay adding another 30 kilometers. I recently had the opportunity to do some running and walking on these two trails and now I can't wait to return with the bike to do the whole Goose! There is a reason why Victoria is ranked as the fittest city in all of Canada. With such an amazing trail system coupled with the mildest weather in the country, how can it not be? There were plenty of people out running,walking, and cycling while I was there and despite the fact that the city had just received a rare snowfall and the temperature was hovering at 0-Celsius! Anyhow take a gander at the Galloping Goose's website and perhaps I'll see you on the trail this year. And check out the upcoming articles I'll be writing about Victoria's running scene including its glorious marathon in Northwest Runner this year.

Lanham Lake? Where?

Great day today snowshoeing to Lanham Lake near Stevens Pass in the Central Cascades. Its a fairly straightforward trip- about 1.6 miles and 1,000 feet of elevation gain- old growth forest for almost the entire way and no avalanche danger. The lake is small and sits in a quiet basin below Jim Hill Mountain. What was impressive about today's outing was not so much the locale (although it is quite lovely in winter coat) but the amount of snow. There must be a good 8 feet of it. It is amazing! Spring is here in a few days but it'll be July before most of the Cascades see it. This year may very well be a repeat of 1999 when certain areas in the Cascades never melted out. Looks like I'll be doing some snowshoeing and skiing well into summer this year! So much for worrying about our water supply this summer and global warming? It ain't happening around here this year either!

( photo- Michael Fagin and Heather Romano "walk on water")

Samish Island Cycling

When is an island not an island? When’s its Samish Island! While Samish ceased being an island in 1932 thanks to tenacious farmers filling-in mud flats and enterprising engineers building a dike for a highway, it still feels like an island. Slow pace, isolated and surrounded by marvelous maritime views! The views north to Lummi Island and the BC Coast range are particularly delightful. So is the one east to Baker rising above Blanchard Mountain. And of course there are great views too west to the San Juan Islands (real islands) and the Olympic Mountains. Yesterday Heather and I took advantage of a spring-like day and cycled from Padilla Bay to Samish and back. What a day- and what a beautiful corner of our new home, Skagit County. We could only reflect on how crowded the Burke-Gilman bike path back in Seattle must have been. You can have it! We’re never going back!

(photos- Heather at DNR Samish Island Beach, Lummi Island from DNR beach)